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The voltage in a private house is 160 - 180 volts. What to do?

 

The voltage in a private house is 160 - 180 volts. What to do?Low network voltage is a problem typical for households in the private sector. 160-180 volts - this voltage is not enough for most household appliances and fixtures. Even the simplest incandescent lamp at an excessively low voltage no longer shines, but simply “denotes” its filament with a soft crimson color.

First of all, it should be remembered that the electricity supplier must ensure the quality of this electricity at the input, that is, at the border of responsibility between the subscriber and the supplier. In fact, the boundary of responsibility is most often located at the point of connection of the OHL branch to a private house.

Therefore, the question of fundamental importance is: within whose area of ​​responsibility is the problem? If the voltage on the overhead line itself is as low, then the energy supplying organization is responsible for this (gardening board, Energosbyt, etc.) But if the voltage there is in order, then the input is the problem area, and this is already on the consumer’s conscience.

It is practically not at all easy to make measurements on the overhead line support at the branch connection point, and it is also unsafe. Such work can only be done by qualified employees of the electricity supplier organization.

For example, if only you have voltage problems, and the neighbors connected to your own phase do not experience any inconvenience, then this clearly indicates that the technical problem is on your branch.

Another characteristic sign of problems precisely at your input may be the lack of subsidence before the inclusion of any electrical appliances in your home. That is, if the input device is turned off - the input voltage is full, and if the stove, kettle and vacuum cleaner are working at the same time, then they can’t practically work, as the drawdown is obvious and noticeable even without the use of special devices.


Sagging within the homeowner's liability boundary

If the voltage drop occurs precisely on your branch, then the following options are likely:

1. The cross section of the lead-in conductor is not sufficient for the available length. On too thin conductors, a voltage drop occurs, which in the case of ultimate load can be very significant.

2. The branch circuit has bad contact, which plays the role of additional resistance. On this resistance, in accordance with Ohm's law, a voltage drop occurs. These volts, “disappearing” due to poor contact, may not be enough.

Lost volts cause heat to be generated. In the first embodiment, this is not so critical, since the lead-in conductor is heated uniformly along the entire length. But with the second option, bad contact will warm up. And very intensively, up to the point that the place of heating will be visible to the naked eye. Heating will contribute to further deterioration of the contact, and the result will be either a complete inoperability of the input, or, in the worst case, a fire.


If you find out that the voltage drop in the house is caused by problems in your power line branch, then the following actions should be taken:

1. Critically assess the status of contacts. This, first of all, concerns the junction of the main power line and your branch. How is this connection made? If using ordinary twisting, then it is very likely that the problem lies here: the transition resistance of such a contact located in the open air is growing steadily, and only practically ideal cooling conditions save from fire. All this is especially true if the aluminum main and copper branch conductors are connected by twisting. Unfortunately, this also happens.

If the branch is made using certified clamps, then it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the housings of these clamps. Reflow and other damage to the clamp housing may indicate a problem with electrical contact. You can verify the existence of these problems by turning on the maximum load on the network (as many power consumers as possible) and making simple observations. If sparking occurs inside the clamp, smoke is emitted, and the temperature clearly rises, then the clamp is uniquely the cause of voltage subsidence and must be replaced.

2. Another place of problem contact may be the upper terminals of the input switching device (most often the machine). In this case, sparking can come directly from the input shield, and the case of the circuit breaker will have signs of fusion. Then the input device must be replaced.


Sagging voltage within the energy company’s liability

At first glance, this case seems to be the simplest: they cooperated with neighbors, wrote a complaint - and please. The supplier is required to ensure the quality of the electricity supplied by law.

However, in fact, everything is much more complicated. Undervoltage in the power line network can be associated with such circumstances:

1. transformer substation overload,

2. the lack of cross-section of the conductors of power lines,

3. “skew”, that is, uneven loading of the phases of the transformer.

The first two reasons are not difficult to diagnose, but not easy to eliminate: either the replacement of the transformer or reconstruction of the power transmission line is required. In addition, the network load is not stable, which means that with the third reason, too, not everything is clear. It should be noted here that today at most substations relay protection is working properly. And this means that the voltage drop due to banal overload is characteristic only for some gardening and deaf settlements.

Justification that the power of the transformer is insufficient, or that the load is distributed unevenly across the phases, will be virtually impossible to find. Now there is an overload or skew, and after half an hour it may already be gone. Accordingly, the voltage drop is also unstable, and consumers are left alone with their problem.

Of course, it is necessary to write “paper” to energy salesmen in a similar situation. But you still have to take some steps yourself. Alternatively, in such a case, you can obtain permission from the sales company and bring it into the house all three phases. Next, you can install an automatic phase switch at the input and always use only the phase that is least loaded at the moment, the voltage in which will be close to 220 volts.

In the absence of such permission from Energosbyt, it is possible to carry out a periodic “phase change” with the participation of electricians from the operating organization, who will provide the necessary shutdown at the substation. But it should be noted that such actions will hardly radically solve the issue.

The insufficiency of the cross-section of the conductors of power lines relatively often causes a voltage drop, not only in garden gardens, but also in the private sector within the city. The fact is that a couple of decades ago, these lines were carried out by the cheapest wires. The most common were steel-aluminum wires with a cross section of 16 square meters. mm Steel provides this wire with increased bearing capacity, but significantly reduces conductivity. And this despite the fact that the cross section is 16 square meters. mm so it’s not particularly large, and aluminum itself is not very conductive.

At that historical stage, when even an electric stove was not available in every private house, and there were no other powerful electric receivers at home, there was quite a power line from the AC-16 wires. And today, on the site of the former small houses, whole palaces are being built. Moreover, preference is increasingly given to electric boiler heating. Of course, electricity consumption increases significantly.And even if the transformer at the substation copes, or it was replaced, then on thin wires at high currents there is a significant voltage drop.

A characteristic sign of insufficient cross-section of the power transmission line wires or substation transformer power is normal voltage at night and constant subsidence in the evening. But it is worth noting that these two problems often "go hand in hand."

Where there are weak power line wires - there is also a low-power transformer. And the need to make large investments hinders the elimination of problems. One transformer costs about a million rubles, depending on its capacity. In addition, the reconstruction of power lines using SIP also "will cost a pretty penny."

For these reasons, energy retail companies, gardening and village administrations can remain silent for years, even if there are obvious problems.


Known methods of private solutions to the problem of low voltage in the network:

1. Installation on your own input voltage stabilizer. To be honest, this measure in the case of a drawdown of up to 160-180 volts is doubtful. Firstly, the stabilizer of such a deep stabilization and suitable for home ownership power will be very expensive. And secondly - a dozen of such stabilizers in the power line network - and the network literally falls to its knees, from where it can no longer be lifted by any stabilizer.

2. Installation of step-up voltage transformers at the input. This also does not fit at all. Suppose we put a transformer, selecting a transformation ratio from 160 to 220 volts. And in the morning the voltage in the network returned to normal, and instead of 220 in the sockets it became 300 volts. All appliances and bulbs burn out. After all, the problem with the voltage drawdown is that this drawdown is almost never stable.

3. Installing an additional grounding device at the input. Of course, to the zero working conductor. The meaning here is that the power line is a direct conductor (phase) and a reverse (zero). The cross section may be insufficient for both, but by grounding the neutral conductor, you can reduce the resistance of the working zero and in general, the resistance of the line will also decrease. However, such a measure is also fraught. First of all, by the fact that during repairs at any point on the line, electricians can mistake places zero and phase.

In this case, the grounded phase will cause a short circuit. Another option is to break the working zero on the power line. Then all operating currents will go through your grounding device, which can lead to difficult to predict results. In the best case, the grounding device will simply fail.

As a result, it will have to be recognized that there is no independent radical solution to the problem of voltage drop due to a weak substation transformer or too thin transmission lines wires. One in the field is not a warrior. It is necessary to unite with neighbors, make an appeal to the energy sales organization and be prepared for the fact that part of the costs will have to be borne. Otherwise, the matter may drag on indefinitely.

Alexander Molokov

See also at bgv.electricianexp.com:

  • What is better for a private house - single-phase or three-phase input?
  • Electric installation work when connected to the electricity supply of a country house
  • Power supply of a country house
  • Zero line break protection
  • ABP for single-phase network and phase switch PF-451

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    In one of the regions we have a similar situation with a drop in voltage, but presumably in the winter. Previously, the apartments had central heating, then many people disconnected from it and are heated mainly by electric heaters. If in normal times the voltage of the network is 220-230 V, then during cold weather it drops to the value of 170-180 V. The energy supplying organization does not undertake to solve the problem, although it is practically possible to connect houses to transformer substations with less loaded transformers. We used stabilizers to normalize the voltage, but they do not work for a long time in this mode - they fail. I installed a step-up transformer that does an excellent job of this.A sharp increase in voltage, depending on the time of day, is not observed, since during this period the load practically does not decrease. But just in case, to prevent overvoltage, I installed a voltage relay in the switchboard, which opens the circuit when the voltage threshold is reached.

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: Sergei | [quote]

     
     

    A dozen such stabilizers in the power line network - and the network literally falls to its knees, from where it can no longer be lifted by any stabilizer.

     
    Comments:

    # 3 wrote: a guest | [quote]

     
     

    Answer. We have a voltage of 180 in a five-story building. Our power cable for our house burned out long ago, we were connected to a neighboring house. We wrote to the energy company - we won’t connect one answer separately, and bye. Advise how to deal with monsters.

     
    Comments:

    # 4 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    a guest, try contacting a superior company office. There was a similar situation: employees of the RES ignored the statements of consumers about low-quality energy supply. People turned to the oblenergo office - the problem was resolved within a month. Moreover, ITR violators of the district energy supply company were punished.

     
    Comments:

    # 5 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    There is another side to the coin in this thread. The metering device is nothing more than a current motor or current transformer. The greater the current, the greater the counter. Or the lower the voltage, the greater the current. And at 1 kW and 200 V the uncle from the power supply has about 4% of the fat (+ 20% in A and + almost 50% the heating time under reduced voltage). And it is almost legal. And this voltage at normal load has at least 70% of consumers. That's where the theft is! And what scale is for fans of exact numbers. And some fool will raise us tension to the detriment of ourselves, and even spend money on it. And what to him to what harm he does to all consumer electronics. I think many would like to discuss this topic on your pages. And how to deal with these uncles and how to raise tension.

     
    Comments:

    # 6 wrote: Dmitriy | [quote]

     
     

    a guestif the appeal to a higher organization does not help - write to the Prosecutor's Office, this certainly should help.

     
    Comments:

    # 7 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    To Vladimir
    It is wrong that the meter is nothing more than a current motor or a current transformer, and the higher the current, the greater the counter. The meter spins faster, the greater the product of voltage and current and power factor. In a simple way, plug in a large capacitor in the network, the current will be large, and the meter will stand. And very rarely, when the lower the voltage, the greater the current, unless with the power supply of the stabilizer with a constant load.
    Switching power supplies (electronics) generally have a wide range of input voltages (80-260V).
    So there is no theft, and do not put an extra barrel on electricians.

     
    Comments:

    # 8 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    Vladimir, the active power is P = U * I (we consider the cosine phi equal to unity, since the load is predominantly active). For example, an electric heater. With a household voltage of 220 V, the load current of the electric heater will be 9.09 A, with a voltage of 190 V, the current will be 10.53 A. Moreover, in both cases, the heater (with constant operation) will consume the same amount of electric energy - 2kW / h. If you do not believe me, take an ammeter and measure the load current of the same electrical appliance at different values ​​of the voltage of the household network.

    Imagine, if it was more profitable not to raise the voltage, then in high-voltage networks, for example, supplying consumers with 6 kV (where the load is up to several megawatts per hour), they would not raise the voltage to normal values.

     
    Comments:

    # 9 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    MaksimovM,
    and how does your heater adjust the resistance to voltage? that the power is the same> accidentally not working in Skolkovo with nanotechnology

     
    Comments:

    # 10 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    He worked for some time in the enterprises of electric networks, I know firsthand about such problems, they have been especially aggravated recently, when in the cold season people turn on a bunch of electric boilers and put the voltage to a minimum.

    Solving problems with low voltage at the input of the network company is very expensive, because you either need to change the main wire along the entire length of the huge trunk (1 - 1.5 km), which, due to the deterioration of all other equipment, forces you to completely build the line from scratch or put another substation to where several “tails” of overhead lines converge and disaggregate them. And this is land acquisition, expensive equipment, commissioning of the substation to Rostechnadzor, and so on.

    The situation can still be improved by the seasonal transfer of transformer substations in transformer substations, but in this case, the consumer closest to the substation, to which the overvoltage will come, may suffer.
    In general, what I want to say: low voltage is sad, but you can’t solve this problem in a snap, just by writing an angry complaint.

     
    Comments:

    # 11 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    There are capacitor units that can be put on input and solve the problem of electronic quality. energy

     
    Comments:

    # 12 wrote: Phil | [quote]

     
     

    Sergei,
    Capacitor units compensate reactive energy, i.e. in the presence of an inductive load (e.g. an electric motor), and in the private sector, the main load is heaters, i.e. active.

     
    Comments:

    # 13 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    petst, it was about the fact that the appliance consumes the same amount of electrical energy, regardless of the voltage value of the household network. With a different value of the voltage of the household network, the current will be different, and the power consumption is the same. This can be verified empirically. Take an ammeter and measure the load current of a particular appliance and also measure the mains voltage. When the voltage in the network is different, measure again. Multiplying the current by the voltage, we get the power - each time it will be the same (provided that the operating mode of the appliance has not changed).

     
    Comments:

    # 14 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Any electric meter of active energy integrates the product of voltage by current and phase current.

     
    Comments:

    # 15 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I have an electronic two-tariff meter, it has an additional function, it shows the power consumption at the moment. So for example, if a 60-watt bulb is lit, and the mains voltage is close to 220, then the display is 56-64 volts, and if the mains have 160-190 volts, which happens almost always, from September to June, then with the same bulb the meter readings ... until they clean up the tension. In general, the meter’s passport indicates its operating voltage of 190-230 V, so I doubt its readings.

     
    Comments:

    # 16 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    If the light is weak (170-180), then it is necessary to open the production of iron doors. With welding, you loosen it to 90-120 volts. This is the only way to solve this problem - and no one will blame you. You are not an electrician !!!!!!!!!
    This is how I solved this problem when I left 1 at a summer cottage from 5 substations. After all, when I was building a house with winter residence, no one told me that in winter there would be 150 volts ............... ..
    Now the substation near me has been turned on, and I threatened the chairman that if he again leaves 1 substation, then wait for new sanctions !!!!!!!!! (door production will continue at night !!!!!!!!

     
    Comments:

    # 17 wrote: Denis | [quote]

     
     

    a guest, about 10 years ago, in our 19-story building, Jack decided to put on a concierge. Booth 20 to 20 of brick. They began to build it, as "tyap blooper and ready." We did not like it and we broke it. Breaking was not difficult because the brickwork itself barely stood.It was simple enough - just kick a foot. Only for the 5th time they realized that they need to build quality. They built a booth in one day, smooth and beautiful - which can only be broken with a sledgehammer. The result was achieved !!! So with the substation, you can solve the problem without contacting the network. I will not write - think for yourself. (leave them no choice !!!)

     
    Comments:

    # 18 wrote: Maksim | [quote]

     
     

    To stabilize the voltage, you can use the most common step-down transformer at 12 or 36 V. Here, of course, you can not do without knowledge of the basics of electrical engineering, however, with proper execution it is completely safe. It is not necessary to choose a high-power transformer, since even a device with a power of 100 W will stably withstand loads of 500 W, respectively, a kilowatt transformer is 5,000 watts.

    The principle of using this device to increase the quality of electricity is that this device is connected as a step-up autotransformer, adding a voltage of a step-down winding to the line voltage of the network. In this case, at 175 V in an electrical outlet, 12 V is added to the output of this circuit and the voltage will be 187 V. Of course, this is far from the standard values, but this voltage is enough for household appliances to work. When the situation normalizes and standard energy parameters are reached, the circuit will give a value of 232 V, which is also safe.

    If you chose a 36 V transformer to stabilize the situation, then under the same conditions the voltage will reach 211 V, however, when the malfunction is eliminated, the autotransformer will have 256 V at the output of the autotransformer, which will very negatively affect the operation of electrical appliances. Therefore, it is better to choose a middle ground and stop on a device with a nominal value of 24 V.

    We should also talk about power. Since the current difference flows in the network winding of the transformer, when the voltage increases by an insignificant amount, the current turns out to be quite small. The total current will flow in the additional winding, however, it is made of large cross-section wires and can withstand the load for a long time. So, for example, with a transformer power of 100 W, this winding will be designed for a current of 5 A, which is about 500 W of load. It is worth remembering that when connecting the device, it is important to correctly phase the windings with a voltmeter. Further connection of devices is best done in the network through a fuse, this will protect you from fire in the event of a short circuit.

    Such transformers can be found on any flea market or radio market, the cost of its acquisition will be insignificant compared to possible losses due to failure of household appliances.

     
    Comments:

    # 19 wrote: Novel | [quote]

     
     

    Vladimir,
    Teach Ohm's Law! Before you write.

     
    Comments:

    # 20 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I read your comments and I got the impression that I went to the university audience in electrical engineering !!! I need a voltage in the network, I regularly pay for electricity and that where they will connect is not of interest to me. They are put in place so that I have a voltage of 220v in my house. Where to start solving a problem, where to write a complaint?

     
    Comments:

    # 21 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Hello. I will help to increase the voltage in the network from 100 to 220 is not expensive. 89655333237

     
    Comments:

    # 22 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    Irina Mkrtycheva, it all depends on what kind of voltage you have in your network. 220 V almost never happens, since it is impossible to provide the same voltage for all consumers along the length of the line going from the transformer substation. The closer to the substation, the greater the voltage, respectively, the further - the less the voltage. Voltage deviation from the nominal value by 5% is allowed, both upward and downward.If your voltage in the network goes beyond these limits, then in this case, you need to contact the organization that provides maintenance of electrical networks in your area. The article describes everything in detail.

     
    Comments:

    # 23 wrote: Nick | [quote]

     
     

    If you take the scale, then the problem is huge. I decided so, there is a company in Novosib

    a-electronics (NOT ADVERTISING !!!!), I ordered auto-inverters from them. There is an interesting solution to this problem there, essentially the same inverter, only 7-10kW.

    Yes, the device is not cheap (about 40 coins), but a private house pulls on "Hurray" ..... the second year is worth it.

     
    Comments:

    # 24 wrote: Olga | [quote]

     
     

    To be honest, I don’t really understand physics, but when I encounter the same problem, I understand one thing: I’m now warming a bowl of soup in the microwave instead of 2 minutes, 6-8, and accordingly I think that the counter will wind up more and I don’t know what to do.

     
    Comments:

    # 25 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    Olga, in your case, the problem can most likely be in the microwave itself, if the heating time has increased so much. If, on other electrical appliances, on lighting devices, it is clear that the voltage is noticeably lower, then you should invite an electrician to measure the voltage in the network and, in case of excessively low voltage, contact the power supply organization to solve this problem. In general, if the voltage is reduced, then the microwave, as well as an electric oven, oven, boiler, etc. will not work at full capacity. That is, the time for heating the food increases, but at the same time the appliance will consume the same amount of electricity as with a normal voltage in the network. The difference is only in the time it takes to heat the food to a certain temperature.

     
    Comments:

    # 26 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    MaksimovM,
    Here you have written nonsense. Have you studied physics at least?

     
    Comments:

    # 27 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Alexander,
    P = U * I, like any power meter.
    And how do clamp meters work?
    And how does a voltmeter work?
    And how does an ohmmeter work?

    MaksimovM,
    One caveat. A microwave at below 180 does not heat food at all, but it was turned on (this was wasted energy.)
    And email the boiler can warm for days and never heat the home to 20 °, while increased cooling plays a lot for a while. This is all the wasted electricity - that is, money.

    I’ll write a little riddle for electricians about light :)
    I live on the fifth floor of a five-story building. In the non-heating season, I have 245 volts (now). When you turn on the electric kettle 2.2 kW, the drawdown goes 7-8 volts, the voltage drops to 237 volts. The length of the wiring from the house switchboard distribution to the 1st floor of the entrance is about 50 meters with a cable of 416sq.m plus from the basement to the 5th floor through connections of about 5 more meters 12 with a 10sq.m aluminum wire.
    The voltage in the apartment in the summer is 240-250 volts, but there is no such voltage in the basement in the water shield, there is a maximum of 235 volts in all phases, catch it !?
    And now the fun part is
    Winter is the heating season, overloads, loads on the transformer on which two five-story buildings sit and the kindergarten voltage drops, at the input of the house the voltage in the three phases is 190-220 volts, and, in my apartment at this time, ordinary bulbs are 40-60 watts, they burn like halogens bright with white light, household appliances cope with work, pulsed power supplies whistle, the overheating relay once melted in the refrigerator, changed and works. When measured with the same voltmeter in my apartment, there are already 270 VOLTS, Why? Where? I didn’t figure it out! After all, at the input the phase 200 volts!
    I had to sit down this voltage all winter with fireplaces, a boiler with peaks of more than 275 volts, the input relay protection was set to a maximum of 280 volts, which periodically turned off the apartment, and which was difficult to turn on when voltage was normalized by waiting or unit drawdown by switching on an electric boiler of 4.5 kW connected past rilushki.
    At this phase, at the entrance of 15 apartments, there are two apartments, ours and the neighbors who come from Moscow sometimes, but they have a 10 kW stabilizer, and U = 220 v.

     
    Comments:

    # 28 wrote: Vitaliy | [quote]

     
     

    Your phase is the most lightly loaded, and with a phase imbalance this will happen, on other phases there will be a squeezed voltage. And in the switchboard, measurements were taken at different times, not in the same thing as in the apartment, apparently. It is necessary to evenly distribute the load in the house, load all phases equally, that is, 5 apartments per phase. The greater the bias, the higher the voltage will flow from you and lower in other phases. Imagine the Mercedes icon, there are three lines in the ring, now imagine that there are 380 volts between the lines, as it were 3 phases and 380v between each of them. If we take and move one line closer to another, we get a skew, now where the lines are closer to each other will be 300V, where the lines diverged 400V and in the third phase some kind of voltage. That's how it all looks.

     
    Comments:

    # 29 wrote: Nikolay | [quote]

     
     

    Have you wound up here phase electricians, I still do not understand anything from your shame, namely: If the network has less than 220, then the consumption of the device, as one of you has already said with its amps times volts, remains unchanged? Then, in 8 minutes, the microwave will gobble up more with a network current of 180V than if there are 220 in the network and it takes 2 minutes to warm up the soup plate? And then what about the meter? he, too, can eat more or less is not clear when his work schedule 210-250 is violated or what?
    The following is what is possible email. a 1kV heater will get worse when the voltage is lowered; therefore, we need a heater not 1 but 2 kV. And in the end, there’s also a question on the counter, it’s only one thing that can be seen, you need to buy a stove or a heater that is obviously more powerful.

    I’ve experimented at half an evening at work on light bulbs and lowering the current, and how much consumption is output, but it turned out that this whole thing is much easier to calculate when the Internet is available, it will open everyone’s eyes in two clicks and you just need the online watt-ampere calculator and if the network is 220 volt and consumer 1000 watts i.e. 1kV (heater for example) then the current strength is 4.5A but we have 160 volts in the network and therefore if we enter instead of 220, 160 in the calculator, then we have 6.25A at the output. Consumption increases one and a half times and the meter will naturally spin more, and since the current is small and there is no longer enough 1kV heater, we need 1.5-2kW, which means that we will have to pay even more, so in principle we are deceived from all sides .

     
    Comments:

    # 30 wrote: Mikhailo Mikhailovich | [quote]

     
     

    will open everyone’s eyes in two clicks and you just need the online calculator watt per amp and if the network has 220 volts and the consumer is 1000 watts i.e. 1kV (heater for example) then the current strength is 4.5A but we have 160 volts in the network and therefore if we enter instead of 220, 160 in the calculator, then we have 6.25A at the output "!! "TOV. Scientists associate professors with candidates confused you" with phases zeros and squares. According to your concepts, if there is 1 volt in the network, then when the heater is connected to 1000 watts, the current will be ... 1000A !!! Learn the law of the great OMA !!!!

     
    Comments:

    # 31 wrote: Arsen | [quote]

     
     

    And what to do when the stabilizer shows an input voltage of 90 V? This generally does not fit into any framework. At the same time, a fee is charged from us as with 220 V. Otherwise, they are disconnected from the network.

     
    Comments:

    # 32 wrote: Nika | [quote]

     
     

    According to current standards GOST 13109-97. "Electric Energy. Electromagnetic compatibility. Standards for the quality of electric energy in general-purpose power supply systems ”and GOST 21128-83. Power supply systems, networks, sources, converters and receivers of electric energy. Rated voltages up to 1000 V (enforced by Decree of the State Standard of the Russian Federation of 08.28.1998 N 338), the rated voltage of systems and networks of power supply is 220 V. The maximum permissible value of voltage deviation is +/- 10%.

    In accordance with Art. 18 of the Law of the Russian Federation of 07.02.1992 No. 2300-1 “On the Protection of Consumer Rights”, a consumer, if a product is found to be (electricity is a product) defects, if they were not agreed upon by the seller, have the right, of his choice, including:

    - require immediate gratuitous elimination of defects in the goods or reimbursement of expenses for their correction by the consumer or a third party;

    - demand a commensurate reduction in the purchase price.

    After carrying out the above measures, consumers have the right to apply to the court in defense of their rights (compensation for harm (damage), recovery of forfeit, etc.).In this case, in case of damage to the consumer due to the supply of electricity of inadequate quality before filing a lawsuit, the court, in order to establish an appropriate evidence base, establish the reason for the failure of electrical appliances, as well as assess the damage caused, should conduct an independent examination in a specialized organization.

    Regarding court costs, we explain that the plaintiffs in claims related to violation of consumer rights are exempted from paying the state duty in cases considered in courts of general jurisdiction, as well as by justices of the peace, if the price of the claim does not exceed 1,000,000 rubles (Article 333.36, Tax Code of the Russian Federation (part two)).

    In addition, based on the results of the consideration of the case, the party in whose favor the court decision was made, upon its written request, the court awards, on the other hand, the costs of paying for the services of a representative (lawyer) to a reasonable extent (Article 100 of the Civil Procedure Code of the Russian Federation).

     
    Comments:

    # 33 wrote: John Wayne | [quote]

     
     

    MaksimovM seems to answer the riddle of the novel lies in a change in zero resistance. He is aluminum, + 5 connections. The current flows from 2 phases there, and resistance increases from heating and the voltage still grows. Since you are on the 5th floor you are the most unlucky - the length of zero is the most. I think that if zero is replaced or podshamanit, then the problem will disappear.

     
    Comments:

    # 34 wrote: Artyom | [quote]

     
     

    I read the comments and understood the essence of the polemic about Ohm's law. Rights on both sides. The power spent, for example, to boil a kettle or warm food, is the same at any voltage (wait longer, but pay the same). BUT! If it is a continuous-acting device (heating system pump), then it works to its full potential and purely by logic, if it is needed to increase the efficiency of the system, then the system eats more firewood. I have losses, but the resource company wins. I think that the sabotage of the substation reconstruction is based on the insolvency of the EU RAO (money is stupid). In our village, we wrote a statement. Result-0 ... I bought an inverter and a couple of batteries for 100a / h. It helped, but it cost a lot and now I really pay the voltage difference from my pocket, but there’s nowhere to go, the water from the well itself arriving ...