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How does the power of household appliances affect electrical wiring

 


An example from the life of new settlers

How does the power of household appliances affect electrical wiringA young family with two children (4.5 years and 5 months) made an exchange and moved to a three-room apartment of a nine-story building built in the 80s from reinforced concrete panels with an elevator.

The electrical equipment of the apartment is made according to TN-C without a common ground loop and PE conductor. An entrance switchboard is installed in each entrance. From it, power cables diverge along the floor shields. On each floor there are 4 apartments of two blocks; right and left with a common corridor. It mounted apartment shields, which are powered by "aluminum noodles" 2.5 mm2. The same wires made all the wiring in the rooms.

The new owner is a home master who can not only hammer a nail, but also beautifully lay expensive tiles, repair plumbing, connect a washing / dishwasher, find a malfunction in the phone and computer, and troubleshoot software problems. But he is not an electrician, although he repeatedly changed sockets with switches.

When checking the wiring, the owner with a table lamp went through all the outlets and made sure that they were working. And I checked the light bulbs from the switches: they worked. He calmed down and began to decorate the premises, and problems began later.

In the fall, before the heating season, heating was required in the children's room. They included an oil cooler with a power of 2 kW. At that time, a washing machine and a dishwasher, two televisions, a refrigerator with a freezer, a computer, lighting, a cordless telephone and several low-power consumers worked.

The rooms smelled of burnt electrical insulation. Especially strongly he proceeded from the common corridor from the apartment panel. I had to turn off the power from the apartment and understand: the overall picture from the point of view of an electrician looked depressing.

In the corridor, bathroom and living room, a suspended ceiling is made of drywall sheets, blocking access to junction boxes. The bedroom and children's room are covered with expensive decorative wallpaper, and the distribution boxes are not only hidden under them, but also beautifully plastered. Their approximate location had to be clarified with neighbors living on the lower floor. Expensive tiles on the walls and a fixed fabric suspended ceiling completely block access to the wiring in the kitchen.

I had to turn to electricians and technical manuals, to analyze the situation. The aluminum wires of the apartment were mounted under the rated current load, which was created by consumers thirty years ago. In addition, they have already served a decent time:

  • aluminum was subjected to bending, stretching, crimping with screws and its cross-section decreased in the places of deformation;

  • polyvinyl chloride insulation was wiped during drawing through the cavities of reinforced concrete structures and experienced excessive heating from high currents during operation.


The most critical place turned out to be distribution housing panel: where the neutral conductors are assembled. For these purposes, an assembly site of two parts was used. Zero from the floor plate came to the first half, and all other wires were collected to the second half.

Between the sites was a jumper from the same aluminum wire. Through it, like the incoming wire, the whole load of the apartment passed. The metal withstood, and the insulation burned out by more than 2/3 of the length, starting from the first site: different effects contact resistancecreated by screw clamps.

The wire insulation from the floor plate also began to melt, but not so intensely. The fire did not have time to occur - the electricity was turned off on time and the wires were allowed to cool.

Currently in this apartment:

  • defective jumper replaced with copper, capable of withstanding heavy loads;

  • the rules for using electrical appliances were explained to the new owners and their attention was focused on the inadmissibility of the simultaneous inclusion of powerful consumers of electricity.

After a long conversation, the home master:

  • seriously took up the study of electrical engineering and electrical installation rules: plans to replace the wiring with a more powerful one according to the new scheme with a PE conductor and collects money for the upcoming work;

  • He contacted the housing and communal services regarding the transfer of the building to the TN-C-S power supply scheme, but the answer that this work was still planned was not satisfied: he was looking for alternative options for an apartment located on the fourth floor.

Take a look at bgv.electricianexp.com:  Diagnostics of the electrical wiring of the apartment before buying


Rules for choosing electrical wiring

To avoid such errors for the safe use of electricity, you need to know the rules for choosing wiring. It is designed for long-term withstanding created current loads that occur when consumers are connected.

The more devices are plugged in, the higher the load on the circuit. In each case, this value varies, but the maximum value is used to select the metal and the cross section of the wire.

In order to determine the maximum power consumption, it is recommended to make a table for all power consumers. Information should be taken from the technical documentation or factory nameplates located on the instrument housing.

Samples of nameplates on the housings of electrical appliances:

Samples of nameplates on the housings of electrical appliances

As an example, the table may have the following form (although the numerical values ​​may vary).

Name of electrical appliance
Power in watts
Refrigerator
300
LCD TV
140
Ordinary vacuum cleaner
900
Washing vacuum cleaner
2000
Electric underfloor heating
1100 per 10 sq. M.
Boiler
2000-10000
Electric stove
1000
Desktop computer
400-500
A laptop
60
Washer
2500
Dishwasher
2500
Light bulb
60-100 (multiply by the amount)
Energy saving light bulb
10-15 (multiply by the amount)
Electric kettle
1000
Slow cooker
1000
Microwave
2000
Iron
1700
Electric drill
400-1500
Hair dryer
600-2000

The list goes on, but it’s impossible to foresee all possible purchases. Therefore, they make a small margin of power, although it should be understood that all of the above devices do not work simultaneously.

The total information is summarized, but taking into account the creation of consumption groups by room. The results are recorded in the prepared table.

Room
Consumers
Power
Corridor
Lighting
 
Sockets
 
Kitchen
Lighting
 
Sockets on the left
 
Sockets on the right
 
Living room
Lighting
 
Sockets
 

Based on the calculations, a hierarchy of the electrical circuit of the apartment is created, which includes not only wires, but taking into account the principle of selectivity, protective devices, control devices, and automation are selected.

To determine the current load in the wire of each group, calculations are performed according to the formulas shown in the figure. For single-phase 220 V and three-phase 380 V circuits, they differ by a value of 1.732.

Calculation of current in a three-phase circuit wire:

Calculation of current in a three-phase circuit wire

Calculation of current in a single-phase circuit wire:

Calculation of current in a single-phase circuit wire

In these formulas, the index “P” indicates the received power of electrical appliances for each group with a voltage of 220 or 380 volts

The simultaneous operation coefficient “KI” approximately takes into account a part of the disconnected devices, and cos φ with such an approximate estimate can be equated to unity: assuming that only the active component of power is consumed. Inductive and capacitive loads, as well as transients during switching on, we neglect.

After determining the currents, you should refer to the tables of the PUE to select the material and the cross section of the conductive core. They take into account operating conditions that additionally create cooling / heating of the metal.

Table of selection of wire and cable cores by current and transmitted power (for increase, click on the figure):

Table of selection of wire and cable cores by current and transmitted power

It is likely that the current calculated by the power of consumers does not match the table value. In this case, you should choose the larger of the two options in terms of value and select a section from it.

Read more about choosing the section of wires and cables for home wiring read here: How to choose a cable section. Designer Tips


Installation Errors

When working with electrical wires, individual electricians commit serious violations of existing rules:

  • the metal of the cores is often excessively crimped, scratches and cuts are made with a construction knife, which are difficult to notice with the eye, but over time they lead to a break

  • the insulation is subjected to abrasion during drawing, notching or exposure to solar radiation.

The influence of sunlight on the polyvinyl chloride insulation of electrical wires

The influence of sunlight on the polyvinyl chloride insulation of electrical wires

Cables and wires are able to work reliably and for a long time: several decades, subject to technology. But the picture below shows the effect of solar radiation on a wire that worked in the open air without any protection for only 5 years. It is impossible to create such conditions for electrical appliances.

Concluding the article, I would like to turn to experienced electricians with a request: supplement the material with your recommendations from practical work. This will help the home foreman who is interested in replacing the wiring in his apartment to do such work better.

Read also on the topic:How to safely operate home electrical wiring with household appliances

See also at bgv.electricianexp.com:

  • The choice of cable cross-section for an apartment, house, cottage
  • How to choose the right wires for wiring and make a fuse
  • How to make the power supply of the apartment reliable
  • How to install a block of electrical switches with a socket
  • Typical wiring diagrams in an apartment

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Home master, do everything at home except wiring and plumbing. This will not work out a lot in case of force majeure.

    And as for such owners, it was rarely possible to convince people to remodel the electrical wiring from the floor board to the last outlet. Everyone wants to put conder, electric stoves and stoves at home, but they do not consider it necessary to invest in engineering systems.

    But it happens, and vice versa, all sorts of sharashniki so want to make money that they take the place of the GOST cable without knowing that, the machines are of the wrong denominations, forget about the RCD, twist the twists.

    I can give a couple of important tips:

    1 take the cables yourself and only GOST.

    2 do not skimp on the machines, it is better more expensive ABB, Schindler and others.

    3 change the wiring if aluminum or just decided to overhaul the apartment.

    4 if it is possible to separate the lighting lines and outlets, into outlets machines with the characteristic "B", into the light "A".

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: Boris | [quote]

     
     

    Electric kettle power 1000 W? In my opinion, now the simplest models are from 2200, those that are cooler and come in at 3,500.

     
    Comments:

    # 3 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I support Igor. If you are a theoretically well-versed person, this does not mean that you will be able to put your knowledge into practice. Theoretical training and work skills are completely different things.
    There was such a case in my practice. One woman invited me and asked me to put in order the "energy management" of the apartment. And I must say that it was in a depressing - terrible state. For example, a voltage could have disappeared at any time in the outlet, it turned out that there was a broken wire “under the spine”, but if you press the outlet harder, then the voltage appeared. In junction boxes, twists could not even be called twists - there was some kind of wild system of hooks, somehow hooked on each other, and somehow insulated with a pretty burnt-out electrical tape. Of course, I brought all this disgrace into a divine form, in the end I advised, at the nearest repair, to replace the aluminum wiring with copper, first of all, and later I found out that the woman’s husband works at one of the enterprises as a power engineer.Maybe this power engineer at his enterprise can somehow manage the electricians subordinate to him, but at home he can absolutely do nothing. It can be seen that the hands do not grow from there, from where it is necessary.
    And the second one. If you, not knowing how to make a paint brush, still decide to try to do everything yourself, then maybe for the first time you won’t succeed, and the second time, and the third ... and then you either learn or spit , and invite experts. In any case, nothing bad will happen. But with an electrician - it's another matter. Here you can either get energized yourself, or arrange a fire in the house, or you can leave the entire staircase without light for a week.
    It is not in vain that when they gave me another trainee, he could only follow me up to six months, observe how I work, and, at best, give me the tools. And then, after passing the exams and gaining access to work, he had to work under my supervision for a few more months.
    Now about the configuration. Do not shop in small shops and the bazaar. Go to the construction hypermarket, but do not take it, which is cheaper. Recently, a client asked me to wire with a wire that he himself bought somewhere. On the wire it was written: ШВВП 3Х2.5, but in reality it was somewhere 3X1 or even 3X0.75 mm2. And better - find a good specialist, and make purchases with him.

     
    Comments:

    # 4 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    If possible, separate the lighting lines and outlets, into outlets with machines with the characteristic "B", into the light "A". Here I was slightly mistaken, on the "C" outlet, and on the "B" light.

     
    Comments:

    # 5 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    1. Only the electrical installer should lay the wiring and in no case be an electrician, much less an engineer.

    2. Once a Jew worked for us - an installer who went to Israel to see his mother: so he often worked there in a kibbutz and changed the wiring at resettlement houses, and it doesn’t matter how long a person lived there for half a year or 15 years. It is not known how the man exploited the wiring. Conclusion ??? And what do we have ???

     
    Comments:

    # 6 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Like all blah, blah, blah and nothing sensible electrics. All cool. But on the merits of the question no one wrote anything sensible))))) specialists .....
    Personally, I have a question on the story (if everything from A to Z is not invented)
    What did the machines do while the wiring burned ???? In buildings of the 80s of the last century, they are quite reliable (and most importantly mandatory) and usually in the event of a malfunction, they respond to a current less than the rated current, and not vice versa.
    Now for the comments ..
    Well, just so straight away and all the wiring to change? And where does the old wiring blame? It is clear that they write people who have this bread ... but then you need to have a conscience. Any installer and electrician (we do not combine these concepts?) Have "super" devices that do things incomprehensible to other people. And with their help, we can easily examine the existing electrical wiring. We will measure the insulation resistance and in 80% it will be normal ... Let's trace (this is such garbage if someone does not know when the signal generator is connected to the wiring and with the receiver in your hand you go and mark how the wires go) and draw a drawing (it’s a drawing, and not just a diagram) of the location of the wiring, soldering and mounting boxes in the walls and ceiling for each plane separately. And even on the most sure thing, we also check the absence of leakage current when the equipment is connected. If someone does not have the opportunity to carry out at least one of these basic tests, you do not have a place in the ranks of people professionally involved in electrics. But back to our long-suffering wiring .... If the diagnosis showed those 20% when the patient died, we replace those lines that did not pass the test with more powerful ones. In the case when all the wiring is in working condition - we reach the necessary lines (usually to a standard apartment no more than two .... I generally try to add only one to power outlets, and time saves the customer’s money with effort.).Well, about the fact that upgrading an existing network with a known trace is a fairly simple matter, I think it's not worth talking about. The lights and sockets are separate, it is also desirable to break the rooms of the group, the power sockets are generally separate and all this in the distribution panel in the APARTMENT where the input lines from the common panel come. For groups in the bathroom, toilet, and kitchen, we hang not only the sockets, but also the lights. I’ve gotten drifts everywhere and don’t worry (I have children ... but it wouldn’t hurt many adults), but of course the financial issue ...
    Advice to the home master.
    The home master needs to do the first, only and most important thing to call a specialist for examination. It will cost a maximum of $ 100 and he will have in his hands the brands of cables with automatic machines and diffs, and the tracing, and the places of the wiring ... and perhaps understanding that it is better to go to work elsewhere for a pretty penny while the specialist will make an electrician 10 times faster than him.

     
    Comments:

    # 7 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Warranty period of operation of an al-wire in owls. the union was 12 years old.

    Of course, it is possible to operate more if the wiring is not overloaded, but given the current load, I would not recommend it.

    The only way out is to do the installation in the cable channel so that you don’t destroy anything (you can use the skirting option). I did the installation with such a channel in the company after a good repair - such as the euro (good quality BCS).

    I would not reanimate the old wiring, it is not known how it will behave

    After a year, even if she is operational.

     
    Comments:

    # 8 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Sergei, I will answer your question about "What did the machines do while the wiring burned ????". To date, the operation of automatic machines for current and time is set only at a rating above 650 A, all the others below at par are equipped with thermal relays or their analogues. If the insulation began to melt (a characteristic smell) and the author of the letter managed to react faster than this turned into a short circuit, that most likely the protection turned out to not work, because Based on the letter, the shield is in the common corridor. And as for the transition from aluminum to copper at home, this criterion has been legalized by the NTD of the Russian Federation since 2001. It is necessary to install an RCD if the house has an active ground loop, in other cases 50 to 50. In my experience, PNE met wiring only in new buildings younger than 2005. Earlier this was mostly fiction or a physically non-working thing.

     
    Comments:

    # 9 wrote: VVG | [quote]

     
     

    Andrew,
    In any case, it is necessary to put an RCD, especially in the bathroom, on the outlet for the washing machine. And the presence / absence of grounding does not matter. Moreover, the protective zero is not connected to the RCD, but there is only a phase and a working zero))