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Proper operation of electrical equipment and wiring in a country house

 

Proper operation of electrical equipment and wiring in a country houseAll rules related to the safety of operation of domestic electrical equipment are of particular importance in relation to a country house due to its isolation. There is no operating organization, and the state of the electrical economy remains entirely the responsibility of the homeowner.

It turns out that in theory, the homeowner should have knowledge of electrical engineering at the level of the person responsible for the electrical industry, which corresponds to the fifth tolerance group for electrical safety. In practice, this, of course, is rarely achievable. However, everyone can remember and learn some rules. We’ll talk about them.

1. Changes in the wiring diagram and the composition of the home electrical panel should be made only after consultation with specialists. Additional sockets, stationary power consumers, entire newly attached rooms with their own lighting circuits - all this is an additional load on the electrical network. And, although any electrician during installation and design provides a certain reserve for power, it is far from the fact that in your case this reserve will be enough.

2. When using shields with a large number of modules and having a wide variety of equipment, there are cases when the contacts of any device are arbitrarily bridged due to constant and annoying trips. This is a direct way to serious troubles: fire or electric shock. The reasons for the operation of the protection devices should be carefully understood, and if their own qualifications are not enough, attract specialists for this. The same can be said about the arbitrary replacement of devices with similar ones having a different nominal value.

3. The power of electrical appliances plugged into sockets must match their current rating. Of course, appliances with factory plugs will not be able to overload 16 amp sockets, unless you use an extension cord and string the entire “kitchen arsenal” onto one socket. Therefore, it is better to bring all the outlets in the house to a single, “16-amp denominator”, so that you can think less about the correspondence of the load later. When replacing plugs on devices with a power of more than 3.5 kW, use only special power connectors.

4. Devices, protection devices, plug connectors, plugs, wires and cords that show clear signs of a malfunction are subject to mandatory and immediate decommissioning. Signs of malfunction include: sparking, unusual loud noise during operation (hum), excessive heat (up to the body melting or external insulation), external damage (chips, cracks, breaks, cuts).

5. Do not overly get involved in extension cords and splitters. The point here is not only the possibility of overloading the socket by connecting too many devices to it. An excess of wires thrown along the floor along the walls can lead to some of them almost inevitably being under your feet, under the legs of heavy furniture, in the teeth of rodents or pets, in the playful hands of your young children. All of the above does not bode well. Therefore, unnecessary open wires in a country house must be disposed of.

6. The need for constant supervision of operating electric heaters is a common truth, however, many homeowners still do not attach due importance to it.

7. Household appliances located in the bathroom, as in a room with an increased risk of electric shock, should only be connected to a circuit that is protected against leakage currents.If there is no RCD or differential circuit breaker in the switchboard, then at least installation of a socket in the bathroom, which is structurally combined with an RCD, is necessary.

8. The repeated grounding device at the entrance to the country house is of particular importance. The conductors that make up this device must be systematically inspected for integrity, and it is advisable to check the memory resistance at least once a year - this is a safety issue.

Other articles from this series:

Power supply of a country house

The composition of the home electrical panel

Grounding device for a country house

Internal wiring of a country house

Installation of electrical wiring in a country house

Wiring accessories and devices for a country house

Warm floor in a country house

Autonomous sources of electricity for a country house

Correct connection of powerful power consumers

Alexander Molokov

See also at bgv.electricianexp.com:

  • Wiring accessories and devices for a country house
  • The composition of the home electrical panel
  • Internal wiring of a country house
  • When washing hands, it is shocking - how to solve this problem
  • Outlets in the bathroom

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    It is enough for the person responsible for the electrical facilities in electrical installations up to 1000 V to have an IV group for electrical safety ...

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    The most important question for a country house is the correct choice of a circuit breaker. So, if the resistance of the phase-zero circuit before entering the house is, for example, 0.8 Ohm, and the socket is connected to the machine with a wire of VVG-3 / 1.5 with a length of 20 m, then the total resistance of the phase-zero circuit to the socket will be about 1.25 ohms. Short circuit current 220 / 1.25 = 180 A. Such a socket must be protected by an automatic machine with a rated current of not more than 16 A, if the characteristic is of type "C", or 32A if the characteristic is of type "B". However, often at the entrance to the house one machine is installed with the characteristic "C" and a current of 40-64-100A, which will not work if a short circuit occurs in a power outlet or in connected electrical equipment, which directly leads to fires.

     
    Comments:

    # 3 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    The fifth group on electrical safety involves the installation, repair and maintenance of networks up to and above 1000V. Why would a simple layman bother with high-voltage networks? Knowledge on the selection of the cross section of the cable conductors, the principle of operation of machines and RCDs is quite enough.

     
    Comments:

    # 4 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Oleg, yes, you're right, sorry. I was carried away by artistic exaggerations.

    Regarding the volume of knowledge, I Dmitry absolutely agree. Because the responsible people have this knowledge, and the homeowners even more so, just sometimes do not. There is no time for fat - they would know the simplest principles.

     
    Comments:

    # 5 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    SUPER, THANKS! WAITING FOR NEW ARTICLES

     
    Comments:

    # 6 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    For consumers whose installed capacity of electrical installations does not exceed 10 kVA, the employee, replacing the person responsible for the electrical industry, may not be appointed. For consumers who are not engaged in production activities, the electrical equipment of which includes only an input (input and distribution) device, lighting installations, portable electrical equipment with a rated voltage of not higher than 380 V, the person responsible for the electrical equipment may not be appointed.

    Somewhere somehow.

     

    PUE 1.7.61

    When using the TN system, re-grounding is recommended ... The resistance of the re-grounding earthing switch is not standardized.

    It is worth noting that the norm is RECOMMENDATIVE, and not obligatory, when the zero breaks, the zero ground wire of exactly the re-grounding can become a source of fire, because it often does not put protection. Less powerful consumers are at greatest risk.

    Be sure to often check the insulation not only to outlets, but also to lamps, which ETLs usually do not even do for money, turning measurements into profanity. If you do not measure the phase-zero and phase-RE, then one day the RCD will not work. The easiest way to check this is by making a button with a 10kOhm resistor - if the RCD does not work when the phase is closed through a resistor to PE in the farthest outlet, then the electrician tricked or the wire fell off.

    The 12V lighting cable should especially be checked for insulation resistance, since significant currents flow there, but such lines usually do not appear in the ETL measurement protocols - a significant threat ..