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Criteria for choosing a voltage stabilizer for the home

 

Criteria for choosing a voltage stabilizer for the home, industrial solutions and home-made designsFor those who often spend their holidays outside the city or live in the countryside, the problem of constant voltage drops in the power grid has long been known. She is very annoying because often leads to failure of both lighting and large and expensive appliances such as refrigerators, microwave ovens, air conditioners, etc.

There are many ways to deal with unsatisfactory quality of voltage in the mains, but probably the simplest is installation of a voltage stabilizer. Such stabilizers are common house (high power) and local, i.e. low power for a specific device. If you have enough money, then bypass stabilizer preferred since It protects your entire home, not just a specific appliance.


Where to begin?

The first thing to do before choosing a voltage regulator is to determine its power. Ideally, it should be 30 percent higher than the total power of all your electrical appliances. At maximum power, the stabilizer is very hot and quickly turns off automatically. Based on practical experience, we can recommend taking common house stabilizer with a power of at least 5 kW.

This is due to the fact that turning on the electric kettle and the washing machine, you immediately exceed this norm. Therefore, if you bought a stabilizer without a power margin, you will have to limit your energy consumption. Protection of the stabilizer, when exceeding the permissible power, will disconnect the load and you will remain in the dark.


In order to make it easier for you to calculate the total power of electrical appliances, we present their average power: kettle 2 kW; washing machine 3 kW; refrigerator 0.6 kW; Microwave oven 1.5 kW; vacuum cleaner 1 kW; TV 0.15 kW; computer 0.2 kW; hair dryer 1.5 kW; water heater 2 kW; electric pump 0.6 kW. More accurate data are given in the passports for these devices.

Calm R 6000

What are voltage stabilizers?

Voltage regulatorAfter you have decided on the power of the stabilizer, we recommend that you decide how much money you are willing to give for the stabilizer. The fact is that with the same power, these devices can vary in price several times. The most expensive, but also the highest quality ones, are double conversion inverter voltage stabilizers. They differ in the largest range of input voltage (115-290 V), high regulation speed (units of milliseconds) and high accuracy of maintaining the output voltage - 1-5%.

In addition, such stabilizers usually have additional services: increasing the cosine phi; surge protection; advanced indication of modes, etc.

The cheapest are relay and ferroresonant stabilizers. The first ones are cheap only if they are low-power, very bulky and have the smallest input voltage range, do not work well when the network frequency changes. Almost not produced at high power, because at a cost become comparable with inverter. Relay stabilizers are characterized by a limited resource, which is determined by the resource of the built-in relays.

More preferable in price and consumer properties. triac stabilizers and servo stabilizers. The latter has an electric motor that moves the carbon electrode along the autotransformer winding. Therefore, stabilizers with a servo drive very slowly track changes in the input voltage, and with sharp surges, they are useless.

Triac stabilizers, these are stabilizers with an autotransformer, but instead of control relays they are used there triacs. These electronic devices have a switching resource of 2-3 orders of magnitude greater than that of electronic relays.Thus, if we talk about a compromise between price and consumer properties, our choice is triac voltage stabilizers.


Where to put the voltage regulator?

The next stage of selection is form factor selection. Stabilizers of 5 kW and above are rather bulky and heavy devices. Therefore, you need to decide in advance in which place in the apartment or house they will be with you. In any case, this place should be close to introductory switchboard. There are floor and wall options, but better options with installation in a special rack. It is bought separately or can be made independently.

The rack version is preferred for several reasons: such a design is more convenient to maintain; no need to drill a wall near the switchboard, where there are always a lot of wires, there are switches in the rack for direct emergency connection of the load to the network (bypass).


Additional service.

Voltage regulatorWhen buying, pay attention to the presence in the stabilizer of devices for indicating modes and voltages. This will help a lot in case of various malfunctions, as well as if you decide to make a complaint to the electricity supplier regarding the non-compliance of its GOST parameters.


Everything for homemade.

Here are some examples of the implementation of such stabilizers: http://www.ntpo.com/electronics/schemes_4/12.shtml, a full description, circuit diagram, printed circuit board and the design of a 6 kW network triac stabilizer are given. The circuit is assembled on widespread discrete parts and general purpose microcircuits.


conclusions. You need an AC voltage stabilizer if mains voltage It differs greatly from the generally accepted standard + - 10% of 220 (380) V, and if expensive appliances are installed in your house. It is possible to independently manufacture such a stabilizer, this will reduce your costs by 3-5 times.

See also at bgv.electricianexp.com:

  • Protection of electrical appliances from low-quality voltage
  • How to choose a voltage stabilizer for a country house
  • Voltage Regulators & Surge Protectors
  • 220V network voltage stabilizers - comparison of various types, worthy ...
  • How to choose a voltage stabilizer for an apartment

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Still need to determine the voltage range. Rarely there are stabilizers with a wide range, so it is conditionally possible to divide the stabilizers into "low voltage" (120-260V AC) and high voltage (170-280V AC) (the voltage values ​​are also averaged).

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Thanks! Very useful stuff!

     
    Comments:

    # 3 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I note that you should not get carried away with the stock. The efficiency of the stabilizer is equal to the rated at rated load. And the stronger the stabilizer is underloaded, the lower its efficiency.

     
    Comments:

    # 4 wrote: Vladimir | [quote]

     
     

    ferroresonant stabilizers ..... are characterized by a limited resource, which is determined by the resource of the built-in relays ????

     
    Comments:

    # 5 wrote: andy78 | [quote]

     
     

    Vladimir, thanks! The article has a typo. Ferroresonant voltage stabilizers are based on the use of the effect of ferroresonance voltage in the transformer - capacitor circuit, which provides continuous control of the output voltage within certain limits of the load change. Relays affect the life of relay stabilizers. Fixed.

     
    Comments:

    # 6 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    After reading the article, with all due respect, the first thing that came to mind was "I saw it somewhere, I heard it somewhere." It is foolish to compare electronic (triac, thyristor) stabilizers and servo-driven voltage stabilizers. They differ in price and quality. It is more appropriate, in this case, to compare relay and servo-drives, triac and inverter. Also, do not forget about the starting currents of some electrical appliances, in particular refrigerators, pumps and other things ...
    And are you sure that at home you can independently produce a high-quality stabilizer ??? If you collect it, then it will come out to you in the exact same amount as the finished product ... Complete nonsense, excuse me.
    Also, you forgot to indicate about the transformation ratio, about kVA and kW. In general, the article is not entirely successful. Your previous articles were an order of magnitude higher.
    With uv. Sergei.

     
    Comments:

    # 7 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    From my experience: electromechanical - a year and full service.
    Electromechanical - more or less, but only in enclosed spaces, since the contacts in the rails are not sealed and slowly oxidized, and burn.
    Triac - at the moment the most.
    Ferroresonance met in the equipment of the 70s and all.
    Usage example http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pl_KnjwVI5g&feature=plcp
    orhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPZ7uC6Dxk8&feature=plcp 

     
    Comments:

    # 8 wrote: Pavel Baranov | [quote]

     
     

    I will give a comparison of the properties of the most common electromechanical and electronic voltage stabilizers using two Resanta devices as an example. For example, these are 10 kilowatt models ASN-10000/1-EM and ASN-10000/1-Ts. They are suitable for servicing a summer house or a small house. Models are interesting in that they are not typical. At Resant, an electromechanical voltage regulator is unexpectedly more expensive - about 840 rubles / kW against 660 rubles / kW for relay. But he wins in that the voltage is continuously adjustable with an accuracy of 2% against surges with a step of 8% for the relay. It turns out that the accuracy of maintaining the nominal voltage affects the price. Prices, of course, are indicative.

    Continuing to compare, I note that electromechanics will not always keep pace with sudden changes in voltage. In terms of speed, the ASN-10000/1-EM is three times worse. If your neighbors include a welding machine in a common network, a mechanical stabilizer may not provide your protection. In principle, significant rapid voltage surges are a significant nuisance for devices of any type. Horse racing reveals a lack of electronic relay stabilizers. They are a source of electronic interference due to fast switching. There are unacceptable pauses in power supply during switching.

    One more circumstance. A powerful relay stabilizer will make noise because a fan is used there for forced cooling. An electromechanical device without a fan, but it will also make sounds - the current collector brush moves. The rustling resembles mouse fuss. What is more acceptable is for the buyer to decide. Low-noise stabilizers with natural ventilation are also there, but more expensive.

    An important parameter is the service life. Resanta, for example, does not advertise longevity, but it is generally accepted that relay stabilizers last 10 to 15 years. Mechanical ones need to be prevented every 1.5 to 2 years, depending on the frequency and rate of change of input voltage and the range of adjustments. Prevention should be entrusted to the manufacturer. The advantage of the devices mentioned here is their relative cheapness. Voltage stabilizers with higher accuracy of maintaining the output voltage, speed and well-known brands are in this range of about 4 - 5 thousand per kilowatt.

     
    Comments:

    # 9 wrote: Vladimir | [quote]

     
     
    Comments:

    # 10 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    And why install a voltage regulator on the entrance to the apartment, that is, for all household electrical appliances? Many electrical appliances that are used in everyday life work in normal mode in case of over or under voltage, that is, for them there is no need to install a voltage regulator. For example, an electric kettle, water heater, electric heater, vacuum cleaner, microwave and others. Moreover, the total power consumption of these electrical appliances is almost the entire load that is in the apartment.

    The most sensitive to voltage drops, as well as high and low voltage - TV, computer, audio system and other electronic devices. The total load of these electrical appliances that are used in the apartment, as a rule, is not more than 1 kW. So why install a voltage stabilizer at 5-7 kW, if, in fact, voltage stabilization requires an advantage for electronic devices?

    A voltage regulator designed for a large rated power costs an order of magnitude more expensive than a kilowatt stabilizer. In addition to saving money on the purchase of a stabilizer, space is also saved for its installation, since the smaller the stabilizer, the smaller its overall dimensions.

    Lowering or raising the voltage in wide ranges is the operation of the transformer, but not as a stabilizer.

    The voltage range specified in the stabilizer certificate is usually increased in both directions. The same goes for its rated power, which is also overpriced. As a result, this leads to the fact that even if all the operating rules are observed, the voltage regulator fails, not having worked for a year.

     
    Comments:

    # 11 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    What to choose?
    Norma M, Leader, Calm, Energy, Progress, or StabVolt?

     
    Comments:

    # 12 wrote: Nikita | [quote]

     
     

    Oh, I don’t know ... I have a lot of questions for domestic stubs. Better Italian Ortea. I have vega10 in my country house.

     
    Comments:

    # 13 wrote: Vladimir | [quote]

     
     

    Nikita, and what is wrong with Russian stabilizers? For quality they are inferior to Italian and other import stubs, of course, but cheaper.

     
    Comments:

    # 14 wrote: Nikita | [quote]

     
     

    Vladimir, in our country, unfortunately, we have not yet learned how to make good equipment, so when there are stabilizers at the quality level of Italian Ortea, then we'll talk. And now all the repair shops are inundated with domestic stubs, although they are cheaper, but they will often have to be changed. Therefore, it is more optimal to immediately install a good expensive stabilizer

     
    Comments:

    # 15 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    The most normal optivolt.

     
    Comments:

    # 16 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Andrew,
    I would like to see how your microwave works at 160-180 volts.

     
    Comments:

    # 17 wrote: Alexey Mamaev | [quote]

     
     

    A stabilizer thing is needed, while the main thing is not only to choose the right type, but also a margin.